Mexican Coke

By way of Jason Kottke, I came up this article by Tom Ragan in the Santa Cruz Sentinel: “Mexican Coke: The ‘Real Thing?’

It’s popping up just about everywhere in Latino communities across the United States: Mexican-made Coca-Cola in those old glass bottles, somewhat of an anomaly in the age of the plastic liter and twist-off cap.

Slightly worn and a bit gritty from all the coming and going, the 12-ounce bottles, which sell for roughly $1.25 a pop, are being bought up and sucked dry at record clips in cities across the country with large Latino populations.

The article proffers two explanations for this surge in the popularity of imported Coke. The first is that it’s served in old-fashioned tall glass bottles. The second is that it’s sweetened with sugar instead of high-fructose corn syrup.

Ragan spoke to Coca-Cola Company spokesman Mart Martin (I am not making that name up), and Ragan tried his best to pin the craze entirely on the bottles

“We believe that the appeal of Mexican Coke is as much about nostalgia as it is about anything,” says Martin. “It’s like getting a piece of home in a bottle. You can’t deny the fact that it’s in a tall glass bottle, something you just can’t find in most parts of the United States.”

But it’s the “same exact product,” and Mexican bottlers are buying the ingredients straight from the company, says Martin.

“It’s not like they’re stirring it up in some backyard,” he adds. “Coke is Coke is Coke.”

The company, however, rarely elaborates on Coke’s ingredients, and the secret formula is actually in a vault in a bank in Atlanta. Instead, the company line all along has been that there is “no perceptible taste difference” between Mexican Coke and the American-made Classic Coke.

The old-fashioned bottles certainly have some nostalgic appeal, but it’s the difference in sweeteners that is fueling this craze. The idea that they’re the “same product” or that there’s “no perceptible taste difference” is hogwash.

I first tried Coke made with real cane sugar a few years ago while on vacation in the Dominican Republic. The difference wasn’t merely perceptible, it was shocking. The first few sips were more unsettling than pleasing, producing a dichotomous sensation of “this tastes like Coke/this does not taste like Coke” at the same time. By the end of the first bottle, though, I wanted more. The only thing that kept me from rotting away all my teeth during that week was that our resort’s “free beverages” policy also included beer.

For Coca Cola to claim these two beverages are the “same” even though they use entirely different sweeteners is preposterous. It’s not like sweetener is just a trace element in the Coke recipe—they’re second only to carbonated water in the ingredients list.

The simple truth is that cane sugar tastes much better than high-fructose corn syrup, but high-fructose corn syrup is way cheaper than sugar. Or at least it is here in the U.S. thanks to government corn subsidies.

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